Wooden strips 2-3” x ½” are tacked to the outside of the exterior post. The 2×4 stud wall sections typically meet in the middle of the posts, and are spiked through the strips. Later, when the structure is weather tight, the drywall can be slid in behind the posts.
The lower walls are in place and the uppers are ready to be raised. In this case Cody is ganging two sections at a time and is raising them up with a cleverly designed chainfall system
They are lifting the upper sections into place
The lifting mechanism ( too efficient to be called a contraption ), is fastened securely on a principal rafter.
Upper gable wall section, ready to be lifted into place. Don’t try this at home.
Lots of windows in this gable, awaiting the upper section shown previously.
Insulation: 2” QuikTherm , installed over the studs, which will have 3.5” fiberglass batts. This wall assembly will achieve Effective R 23.5. Effective R Value system is gradually replacing the old R Value based on manufacturers claims, and the numbers used are smaller. For example, a regular 2×6 wall, with fiberglass R20 batts and 1” of foam outside is accepted as being R24. Tests results indicate that same wall performs at Effective R17.
3/4” v-joint (T&G) is installed on the timber rafters, stained side down.
Cody is protecting the v-joint from the weather as he works his way up.
Over the v-joint, Cody has added 2 layers of 2.5” QuikTherm . Both sides have a mylar reflectant, which reflects cold and acts as a vapour barrier. Seams are taped with the same material. A cross hatching of 2×4 gives a free flow air space and supports both gable and eave overhangs. This is called the “Arlington System”, and we think it is the best method to insulate a roof.
Steel is installed on the strapping, leaving the air space open to flow from the sofit vents, over the insulation and out the ridge vent. The double strapping lets this work even around hips, valleys and dormers.